What is the difference between balayage and highlights? Salon jargon explained!

Hairdressing jargon has changed in recent years, we’re going to try to demystify some of the terms for you, so you don’t feel quite so daft when you shuffle into the salon and ask for your usual highlight because you have absolutely no idea what all these new fangled services are.

Foils, Meshes, Wraps

Traditional highlights, the term foil, meshe or wrap just describes what your salon likes to use to apply them. It is all highlights.

Highlights

Highlights are where you lighten your hair, but not all of it, just strands that are weaved through the hair, section by section. It’s a similar effect although way less painful than the cap of the 80’s. Highlighting or Lowlighting, where darker colour is applied rather than the lightning solutions, (you see what we did there) are applied more evenly than with the cap. Placement of the strands of colour was not quite random with the cap but not a great deal of control nor was it very close to the root. You were also limited to 1 colour as this was painted all over the hair that had been pulled through the holes of the cap. With foils the number of colours you have is only limited by the number of bowls your stylist owns and his or her patience!

Cap

Not seen as much these days although for short hair it can be handy, hair is pulled through a rubber cap that is put on your head, attractive! The stylist uses a crochet hook which has just been renamed a highlighting hook, yes it was painful!

Babylights

Super, super fine highlights, see above. Only a very small amount of hair is left out of the foils, takes longer than normal highlights, you will get a stronger result as more hair is coloured than in standard foils. You may also get stronger regrowth depending on the colours you have applied.

Back To Back Foils

This is where we leave none of your natural hair out of the foils, you takes even longer than baby lights. Can be used as slices to achieve a blonder result, often used in colour correction.

Balayage

A free hand technique where your stylist paints each of your light strands with a brush and a paddle. A very creative technique, that requires skill and artistry for it to look beautiful. Unlike foils, there is no set pattern or sectioning. The stylist manipulates the hair’s tension, angles, elevation, pressure of the brush, product on the hair and how much colour is painted on to achieve the look. In other words, there is a lot that can go wrong, if it just so happens your confident your stylist could re-create the Mona Lisa, go ahead if not find someone specifically trained and practiced, make sure you see examples of their work! Balayage is a work of art!

New York Lights

Put simply, a half head of balayage.

Glaze

= Toner, a glaze is a semi-permanent colour gloss that will tone, add shine and condition your hair. Our Gazes process for 20 – 30 mins depending on the starting tone and desired look, meaning they last longer than standard toners.

Toner

Toners counter-balance undesired tones in the hair. So, if your hair lifts to warm or you like a cool ash we will use a ‘toner’ if your hair needs just a little help, we will use a toner that’s on 2-10 mins at the back wash. If it needs more help, we will use a glaze to kick its ass! Toners do fade quicker than glazes, sometimes if your hair fades fast, your stylist can leave it on a little longer so the toner is stronger when you leave the salon ie, your hair has a blue or purple tinge but will probably give you an extra week of perfect colour as perfect after your first wash and sinks in better. Your stylist can do this but don’t freak out if you look like Papa Smurf! Your getting 1-2 weeks extra out of your colour, better to be blue than yellow!

Re-Touch and Glaze

Root’s covered and re tone, it’s a maintenance service used to refresh balayage or certain looks when you have totally changed your base colour or have grey.

Blow Wave

There’s even multiple options for drying hair now! Blow wave is where your stylist creates curls or waves in your hair using just a brush. All cut and finishes or blowdrys come with a standard smooth blowdry, if you want your hair dried curly, wavy or curled with the irons this is charged extra unless you ask for a blow wave then its included in that services price, always say which you like when booking so they can book the correct time and quote you correctly.

Last but not least, when is haircut a restyle or redesign? What’s the difference?

Re Design

Is a total major change! Think long to Pixi cut

Re Style

Is when your hair has gone out of shape or you add layers or a fringe, a small change to your existing style or take more than 2 inches off

Cut and finish

Is a trim, this is to keep your hair in shape so it doesn’t go out of style. Think of it as maintaining what you have, less than 2 inches off.

Cut and Blow Wave

As above with a bouncy curly or wavy finish

Dry / Wet Cut

This is usually used as an add on to another service that already includes a blow dry.

Although it’s quicker and cheaper, a good haircut is in 2 stages, so you will compromise an area of your cut.

The drawbacks with a wet or dry cut if that’s what you specifically like to book for are….

1) Wet cutting, this created the structure and the shape, think clean straight lines. Your stylist can comb your hair flat and have greater control when getting the hair straight. If it’s dry, it has kinks and bends in the hair that can make the style totally different or uneven once washed and dried at home.

2) Dry cutting, this is where we check if the base line has any graduation or areas of imperfection that will affect you styling your hair. Your stylist will check through the balance and the weight of your hair cut, thicker hair can require more dry work to remove thickness and bulk, meaning your hair will style easier and last longer. Fine hair may need weight removing to encourage movement, body and volume. Your stylist may shatter the edges to give your style a softer or more textured appearance. The dry stage is the personalisation, the design of the cut.

By opting for one or the other you are compromising one aspect of your cut, in most cases, there are the very rare odd exception to this rule.

If you can think of anything we’ve not covered, get in touch and ask us for an explanation. Our front of house Annie is happy to help!

So, What Is Balayage And Do I Need It?

Balayage By COCCO SALON 

All you hear about is Balayage, but what is it exactly and is it right for everyone?

The are a few unanswered questions about this beautifully glamorous colouring trend that has swept the nation.

Balayage is a technique not a look, Balayage is how a look is created, a skill that must be learnt and practiced to perfection. Originating from the French word meaning “to sweep” the technique involves painting the surface of the hair to mimic the way hair would naturally lighten in the sun.

Each ‘highlight’ is painted individually by a skilled hand. The effect on the hair is determined by how much colour is applied to the hair, how saturated the ends of the hair and the pressure applied to the hair when applying the colour. There can be 1, 2 or 3 points on the starting area of the section, all the hair on the ends covered in colour giving ombre result or leaving hair between the sections and more negative space (darker hair) resulting in a more naturally highlighted affect. The service is totally bespoke, everyone will be different and often multiple sessions are needed to give you that lived in look you are craving.

Now you know the technicalities, is it for you?

Balayage Pro's

Balayage is great if you want to brighten up your natural hair and a classic application will do this perfectly.

Balayage is very low maintenance! Because your hair has less hair painted near the roots and more near the ends, hair effectively starts off with roots. This great if your busy or don’t want to have your hair coloured all the time.

Balayage grows out very naturally you don’t get visible regrowth.

Balayage can be kinder to the hair.

It looks more natural and youthful.

Can make fine hair look fuller by adding dimension.

Can give thick hair movement and look multidimensional.

Can work out cheaper than foils over the year

Balayage Con's

Not all the hair is coloured, if you don’t like your base colour it won’t cover it.

If you are very grey it may not be possible, or you will need a retouch as well as balayage.

If you like your hair very ashy, with all ash colours you will still need to maintain the tone with glazes regularly.

Not all ‘Balayage’ looks are achieved with Balayage, many are created with foils as you can have more control and more lift. Don’t limit your stylist to one technique if you bring an inspiration picture.

Hair can and will lift warmer free hand than in foils as the colour is not insulated and lifts in a different way.

Is a larger investment each appointment as it takes longer than foils. (is cheaper in the long run!)

Still not sure if balayage is for you, or have more questions?

Get in touch!

Our Top Tips On Growing Your Hair

Hands in the air if your growing your hair, Wave em around like you just don't care! 

So, it's the new year, everyone is full of turkey and prosecco. Most people are praying for payday to come quicker and you might just be thinking of postponing your hair cut...STOP!!!!!!!

Number 1 Top Tip For Growing Your Hair Is........

1) Trim your hair regularly! By regularly we mean 6-8 weeks. If you don't cut your hair when your growing it, your hair will split and fray up the hair shaft meaning you will need more cut off on your next visit. So, don't miss the appointment because your growing it or skint, get a stylist you trust and ask them to 'kiss' the ends with their scissors just to seal the ends and stop it from traveling up your head!

2) Chop the dead irreparable hair off! So, before you can start to grow your hair down, you must be honest with yourself and get what the hairdresser suggests cut off. If you don't your hair will split and snap off before it grows. Depending on your bravery and how nice your stylist is & how damaged your hair is of course... This can be done in one big chop or a little each visit to keep your hair in a nice style or not to traumatise you, we will just take off what has grown each visit until we reach the full, healthy hair that is worth growing!

3) Feed your hair!!!!!! Nothing in nature grow's unless you feed and nurture it. All hair needs feeding and by feeding we mean treating. "Oh, but I don't colour my hair" I hear you say, even uncoloured hair needs a mask to keep it healthy. Every day our hair is assaulted by the elements, wind, rain, cold, free radicals and the sun’s UV, not to mention, the blow drying, curling, straightening and that's before we even talk about chemical abuse! Hair needs moisture for dryness and protein for strength, some hair need a blend of the two. Any good stylist who truly cares about you and your hair, should tell you about which is right for you. Stylists can tell by touching and viewing your hair what masks to prescribe for you. Don't be tempted to use a one size fits all from the supermarket if you want to see results, if they we're any good, we would use them! (think about it)

4) Let's talk about heat, nearly every time I ask a client if they use heat protection they say yes. So why is your hair burnt to hell?? If you have it, use it! If you’re not using it ask yourself why? It's usually because it’s too sticky, or you can feel it in the hair. If that's the case, try one recommended by your stylist. I always test them by spraying on to the back of your hand. If it rubs in and you can't feel it, it should be fine, if it goes sticky or greasy then I’d leave well alone. Our fave’s are, Hot off the press by Paul Mitchell, Moroccanoil's Heat styling protection and kitoko Arte heat defy spray. A good professional heat defy product should last you well over a year and well worth the investment. Spray your hair every time you use heat on it, not just when your styling your freshly washed hair. Remember most irons heat to 220 degrees and the average shoulder length strand of hair is 2-3 years old, imagine how many times that strand has been burnt alive.... Get spraying!

5) Finally, Diet. It is so important to insure you get the best variety of vitamins and minerals in your diet or your hair won't stand a chance. When the body is lacking, the first non-vital things it starts to neglect is the hair and nails. Thin, slow growing hair can be because of a poor or restricted diet. Whenever I see a client for the first time I analyse the hair and scalp to see if there are signs of dietary, medical or hormonal restriction. Now, I’m obviously no doctor, but I have looked at thousands of scalps in my time and I can spot someone with an iron deficiency from a mile off. So, I would always start off by advising a blood test to anyone who has slow growing or fine hair, even if it's been like it for years. Diet, Thyroid, Menopause, Postnatal hormones etc can wreak havoc with your hair so ask for a full blood screen with your GP as there isn't much we can do if you need a little help on the inside.

If you’d like more personal advice, pop in and see us and take advantage of our FREE hair MOT or FREE HAIR CLINIC, Throughout January 18 with Chloe.

Hayley's Top Tips For Changing Your Hair Colour

So, you're fed up with your hair....

It's been ages since you tried something new and you're ready, ready to take the plunge and change your hair colour.

The preparation when going lighter and darker is actually quite different.

If your wanting to go lighter, the main thing you need to think about above all is the health and condition of your hair and upping your hair care routine. Do you have at least 20 mins a week to dedicate to a hair mask and be prepared to use products to preserve your locks as straightening and bleaching without using protection is a sure way to end up with very little hair.

However, if you don't like your new, lighter you, it is very easy to go back to black dare we say... Going back to your darker hair colour will be very easy and relatively inexpensive.

On the other hand, if you wish to go darker, you have much more to consider. Clients don't always realise this but if you don't like your new darker reflection when you look in the mirror, it will take a lot of time, home care and money, especially if you we're very blonde before to go back to blonde or sometimes even a mid brown if you have gone very dark.

This is the reason hair colourists think box home dyes are the work of the devil because they are so hard to get rid off, not only do they dye the hair they stain it too! (we will be posting on this soon) If you have salon colour on your hair it is much easier to lift out.. easier meaning quicker and cheaper for you.

Think it through...

When you are going for a big change always bring a picture, in fact the more the merrier. Bring pictures of what you like, love and don't like to make sure your stylist know what look you're after and that you've really thought about it. I sometimes make sure my clients ask me on 2 consecutive appointments before I will do something drastic. Ok, so I have some clients who are always changing their hair but others realy don't do impulsive when it comes to hair as they usually regret it.

TOP TIPS

1. Take pictures.

2. Remember, you aren't going to look like the person in the picture unless we stick it to your head and if you bring a 20 year old picture in of a darker / lighter you ... Chances are you're not going to look like you did then... Sorry.

3. Think about the maintenance needed for you new colour, think about time and money you will need to invest to keep it looking amazing.

4. Use the right masks for your hair in the run up to the transformation, this will make your colour last longer and lift better. Ask your stylist which is best for you.

5. Listen to your stylist, we don't like saying no, but sometimes we have to and if a stylist doesn't want to do it, there must be a good reason for it so listen and find out more...

6. Don't be disheartened if it can't be done in 1 day if Khloe Kardashian took 8 sittings maybe you will.

7. Find a good salon who have a good reputation and if you need something advanced expect to be passed on to a senior stylist or director to ensure you get a good job.

8. Use the recommended home care, shop shampoo will not keep your new beautiful colour looking good. Expect you use a shampoo, conditioner, mask (sometimes 2) and leave in treatments and sprays if lightening.

9. Re-book, if your stylist is a good one, rebooking is essential, if your colour is even a week late it can cause banding or uneven colour, so ask your stylist how long they recommend before you visit again. For block / global colours expect 4-6 weeks, highlights 6 weeks and balayage is very low maintenance but your glaze and cut will need redoing at 6 weeks if you are prone to excess warmth or have yellow phobia! Weekends and evenings are always mega busy, sometime you will have to book 2 in advance if this is your preferred slot.

10. Nothing lasts forever so go on and try something new and if you don't like it we can change it... Happy Colouring!

When Our King Of Balayage Jack Howard Came To Cocco Salon

All of our team members have been trained by

globally renowned Balayage pioneer Jack Howard.

This week we had the amazing Jack Howard SRS hold and exclusive day of Balayage Education at Cocco Salon for the whole team!

Hayley our Creative Director first met Jack back in 2014 when she travelled to London & trained with him in the beautiful French technique. She invited him to Cocco Salon to educate the whole team as the demand for Balayage just keeps growing! We are privileged that Jack has given us exclusivity for training and education in Derbyshire and we will continue to renew our knowledge and expertise as new trends evolve and bring them back to our salon, keeping our clientele at the forefront of new trends. We are super proud to be the only salon specialising to such a high level in Balayage in Derbyshire and the Midlands. 

What Jack Says About Balayage?

“Balayage and ombre highlighting techniques are designed to create a very soft natural look Balayage is a French word meaning to sweep or to paint. It allows for a sun-kissed natural looking hair colour similar to what nature gives us as children with softer, less noticeable regrowth lines. The principal idea being less is more when creating soft, natural looks. Ombre refers to the dark roots/light ends effect. This technique also produces sun-kissed, natural looking colour as if you had been on the Riviera. Both techniques can be manipulated and played with to produce the most beautifully on trend hair colour, or the softest sun-kissed look ever”  Jack Howard SRH