What is the difference between balayage and highlights? Salon jargon explained!

Hairdressing jargon has changed in recent years, we’re going to try to demystify some of the terms for you, so you don’t feel quite so daft when you shuffle into the salon and ask for your usual highlight because you have absolutely no idea what all these new fangled services are.

Foils, Meshes, Wraps

Traditional highlights, the term foil, meshe or wrap just describes what your salon likes to use to apply them. It is all highlights.

Highlights

Highlights are where you lighten your hair, but not all of it, just strands that are weaved through the hair, section by section. It’s a similar effect although way less painful than the cap of the 80’s. Highlighting or Lowlighting, where darker colour is applied rather than the lightning solutions, (you see what we did there) are applied more evenly than with the cap. Placement of the strands of colour was not quite random with the cap but not a great deal of control nor was it very close to the root. You were also limited to 1 colour as this was painted all over the hair that had been pulled through the holes of the cap. With foils the number of colours you have is only limited by the number of bowls your stylist owns and his or her patience!

Cap

Not seen as much these days although for short hair it can be handy, hair is pulled through a rubber cap that is put on your head, attractive! The stylist uses a crochet hook which has just been renamed a highlighting hook, yes it was painful!

Babylights

Super, super fine highlights, see above. Only a very small amount of hair is left out of the foils, takes longer than normal highlights, you will get a stronger result as more hair is coloured than in standard foils. You may also get stronger regrowth depending on the colours you have applied.

Back To Back Foils

This is where we leave none of your natural hair out of the foils, you takes even longer than baby lights. Can be used as slices to achieve a blonder result, often used in colour correction.

Balayage

A free hand technique where your stylist paints each of your light strands with a brush and a paddle. A very creative technique, that requires skill and artistry for it to look beautiful. Unlike foils, there is no set pattern or sectioning. The stylist manipulates the hair’s tension, angles, elevation, pressure of the brush, product on the hair and how much colour is painted on to achieve the look. In other words, there is a lot that can go wrong, if it just so happens your confident your stylist could re-create the Mona Lisa, go ahead if not find someone specifically trained and practiced, make sure you see examples of their work! Balayage is a work of art!

New York Lights

Put simply, a half head of balayage.

Glaze

= Toner, a glaze is a semi-permanent colour gloss that will tone, add shine and condition your hair. Our Gazes process for 20 – 30 mins depending on the starting tone and desired look, meaning they last longer than standard toners.

Toner

Toners counter-balance undesired tones in the hair. So, if your hair lifts to warm or you like a cool ash we will use a ‘toner’ if your hair needs just a little help, we will use a toner that’s on 2-10 mins at the back wash. If it needs more help, we will use a glaze to kick its ass! Toners do fade quicker than glazes, sometimes if your hair fades fast, your stylist can leave it on a little longer so the toner is stronger when you leave the salon ie, your hair has a blue or purple tinge but will probably give you an extra week of perfect colour as perfect after your first wash and sinks in better. Your stylist can do this but don’t freak out if you look like Papa Smurf! Your getting 1-2 weeks extra out of your colour, better to be blue than yellow!

Re-Touch and Glaze

Root’s covered and re tone, it’s a maintenance service used to refresh balayage or certain looks when you have totally changed your base colour or have grey.

Blow Wave

There’s even multiple options for drying hair now! Blow wave is where your stylist creates curls or waves in your hair using just a brush. All cut and finishes or blowdrys come with a standard smooth blowdry, if you want your hair dried curly, wavy or curled with the irons this is charged extra unless you ask for a blow wave then its included in that services price, always say which you like when booking so they can book the correct time and quote you correctly.

Last but not least, when is haircut a restyle or redesign? What’s the difference?

Re Design

Is a total major change! Think long to Pixi cut

Re Style

Is when your hair has gone out of shape or you add layers or a fringe, a small change to your existing style or take more than 2 inches off

Cut and finish

Is a trim, this is to keep your hair in shape so it doesn’t go out of style. Think of it as maintaining what you have, less than 2 inches off.

Cut and Blow Wave

As above with a bouncy curly or wavy finish

Dry / Wet Cut

This is usually used as an add on to another service that already includes a blow dry.

Although it’s quicker and cheaper, a good haircut is in 2 stages, so you will compromise an area of your cut.

The drawbacks with a wet or dry cut if that’s what you specifically like to book for are….

1) Wet cutting, this created the structure and the shape, think clean straight lines. Your stylist can comb your hair flat and have greater control when getting the hair straight. If it’s dry, it has kinks and bends in the hair that can make the style totally different or uneven once washed and dried at home.

2) Dry cutting, this is where we check if the base line has any graduation or areas of imperfection that will affect you styling your hair. Your stylist will check through the balance and the weight of your hair cut, thicker hair can require more dry work to remove thickness and bulk, meaning your hair will style easier and last longer. Fine hair may need weight removing to encourage movement, body and volume. Your stylist may shatter the edges to give your style a softer or more textured appearance. The dry stage is the personalisation, the design of the cut.

By opting for one or the other you are compromising one aspect of your cut, in most cases, there are the very rare odd exception to this rule.

If you can think of anything we’ve not covered, get in touch and ask us for an explanation. Our front of house Annie is happy to help!

Holiday Hair Guide

There's nothing quite like a red weather warning to get you hunting the internet for a bit of sunshine! Hands up if storm Emma made you do it 😯🙌 So, now your holiday or holidays are booked and etched on the calendar, have you thought about your hair? Summer can be very stressful for your hair; all that heat and salt water can really dry it out. Try our tips below to get you holiday ready.

1) schedule your appointment with your holiday in mind, speak with your stylist about your upcoming trips in good time and what type of holiday it will be. If your relaxing and taking it easy, it could be a great opportunity to up your hair treatment regime and spend most of the holiday with your hair in a bun by the pool, repairing your hair whilst sipping a cocktail and reading a book. If so, schedule your colour for your return. Hair fades fast in the sun, so bear that in mind when booking your colour appointment. If you are spending your trip networking, socialising and dressing up then have your colour done in the days leading up to your trip so you look your absolute best all holiday! If like me you're the lie by the pool with your hair in a bun type, but you can't bear to look at roots from the start of the week. Aim to travel on week 4 of your 6 weeks cycle but be warned you will have a week when you return with faded hair and roots 😱So if you can't cope with that, bring your colour appointment forward a week or simply book for 2 weeks instead, yay!

2) Protect your hair! Invest in an anti fade, colour protection shampoo and conditioner. Some lines do a dedicated sun range for your travels, that includes a spray to protect your hair too. Speak with your stylist to find out which one is best. Use this while you are away and for 1 -2 weeks after you come back. Often you will find they are heavier than your usual home care, this is to keep your hair extra hydrated as the sun will strip what it can from your hair... Just think of that sun-bleached piece of driftwood on the beach... yep, that’s what sun does to your hair!

3) Take a hair mask! This is your golden opportunity to get some hair care brownie points and give your hair some TLC. Shampoo your hair before going to the pool or beach and towel dry your hair before applying Moroccanoil Hydration mask to your locks. Tie it up high in an invisibobble and let it work its magic while you snooze.... When you return to your room to change for dinner, shampoo your mask out and condition. We recommend shampooing it out to remove sweat, SPF or chlorine from to pool. If you’re the glamour puss who looks immaculate all day by the pool, without a hair out of place, (how do they do that?) Treat your hair intensively in the month leading up to your holiday, 2 masks per week and try to work a hat or headscarf into as many outfit combos as possible! You could even rock a Kim Kardashian Braided doo by the pool while your mask does its thang…

Do make sure you use a colour protecting stray all over to protect you hair and your parting, there is nothing worse than a burnt, flaky scalp! Paul Mitchell's colour locking spray comes in a handy mini 100ml which is great for hand luggage, although we are sure you don't travel light!! The colour locking spray had both UVA and UVB and is very useful for getting to all the bits you can't get with cream. Mist it all over your hair, parting and hairline for extra protection, don't forget behind the ears!

4) Tip 4, Is a bit of a curve ball. With the sun in mind and its incredible power to suck the colour out of your hair, like a dementor from Harry Potter. Pre-holiday is actually a great time to try a darker shade you’re not sure about... Now obviously if you colour it black, there's no shifting it, but if you are a lighter colour wanting to try a warmer or slightly darker toner it's a fab time to try it. If you hate it, sit in the sun and it will probably be gone by the time you get back, love it, then you can try it confidently on your return.

5) Start thinking about beauty prep!

Read our Holiday Beauty Guide Here

 

Sorry To Break It To You.... Leaving Conditioner On For Longer Will NOT Repair Your Hair!

If I had a pound for every time I hear this I would be on a yacht in the bahamas!

Now I don't for one minute think that there is anyone out there who doesn't want to make their hair look nice. Even the client who comes in every 2 years for a chin length bob and treats the salon more like tree surgeons.

As a stylist who genuinely cares about their clients hair, I talk to each and every person who comes through the salon doors about how to make the best of their hair for the amount of effort they are prepared to put in. I always try to keep it relevant and easy, as i'm a low maintenance kinda girl myself. Despite being a stylist for the past 14 years and working in a salon for 18, I am not and will never be the person who uses 6 brushes and 10 products on mine or anyone else's hair for that matter,, ok, unless its a wedding! 

If my regime cannot be done whilst multitasking it's just not going to happen. I live in awe of my bff our therapist Michelle, her skin is so soft from body brushing every day that Jamie Dornan would slide off! (she will kill me for that)!😘 

Back to hair now and less daydreaming about the aforementioned Mr Grey! 

There is a misbelief amongst clients that leaving regular conditioner on for longer will repair or 'extra condition' your hair. The sad fact is that this is doing nothing except wasting your precious time. The science behind it is that regular condition from the supermarket or salon is designed to close the cuticle layer of your hair after cleansing. The conditioner is acidic which makes the cuticle layer lay flat and as tight as possible. This seals the hair and gives a reflective surface for light to bounce off making the hair appear shiny. When the cuticle layers lay flat it also reduced the risk of damage from brushing and styling because your hair is smoother, this also makes it feel soft. Some people say using conditioner makes their hair feel heavy and lifeless, I believe that only when the incorrect conditioner for your hair type is being used. Conditioner should not weigh the hair down nor leave it greasy.

If you want to repair, nourish or strengthen your hair, a hair treatment or mask is what you need. Unlike conditioners, their molecules are small enough to penetrate the cuticle layer and depending on the quality, travel deep into the hair. Protein rich masks will build and restore the elasticity in the hair, this is great for people who have lightened their hair or have naturally fine hair. Fine hair is naturally weaker and needs more protein than thicker hair.

Moisture masks hydrate and soften the hair, making hair more supple and manageable. Thick coarse hair can become stiff or feel hard to touch, this is when extra mosire is needed deep within the hair and to soften the external cuticle and promote shine. Moisture rich masks will improve the texture of your hair and make it easier to style.

Every hair type would benefit from a weekly mask, hair gains no nourishment or moisture from the body once it had grown from the follicle. Whilst diet and health affects it while it's growing, once grown there is no way to repair or alter your hairs state unless you invest in the correct homecare to fix it. 

How To

Cleanse your hair using a professional shampoo, on mask day I prefer to use a clarifying shampoo to detox my hair and open my cuticles as wide as possible, this way i know my mask is going to penetrate as deep as possible and product build up or oil can't create a barrier. Once cleansed, towel dry your hair by gently squeezing the water out or if our hair is very thick you can wrap your hair in a towel for a few mins before you apply your mask. We recommend you dry your hair a little fist so the mask isn't diluted too much by the water in your hair. Once towel dried you are ready to put your mask on, scoop a 50p sized dollop of the mask into your hand and work into your hair starting from the ends, you will notice your hair starts to soften immediately. Add a bit more if you feel your hair isn't covered, some stylists will recommend you keep the mask away from the roots, I personally put mine all over so it's personal preference, I can make your hair feel too soft at the roots and be harder to get volume in your hair immediately after treating, but the shine is awesome so it's your call!

Leave the mask on for the time it states on the tub, I like to put a shower cap on and either carry on showering knowing my hair is safely out the way or you can get out and do other things and jump back in the shower when it's ready to come off.

If your doing two masks, rinse, towel dry and apply the second (protein 1st, moisture 2nd)

Process and rince, seal your treatment in using your salon professional conditioner.

What if I need moisture and protein and have 2 masks to use?

If you need protein adding to your hair we always recommend that you have moisture too, in fact, we will not sell a protein mask to anyone without a having moisture first. Why,  hear you say? well sorry but I just don't trust you! I have a duty to protect my clients from themselves, if you use a protein mask incorrectly un can cause your hair to SNAP!

As many clients will often say they will by the moisture mask on the next visit, I will only let a protein mask be purchased if I know they have the moisture one at home or are buying them together. Also, protein masks very rarely make your hair feel nice, as the protein hardens and strengthens the hairs internal structure, it often doesn't make your hair feel very nice or any different after so in my early days as a stylist i'd often have a client discard her protein mask and stop using it as she couldn't feel an instant improvement. Of course it was working but because protein hardens and rebuilds you can't feel it, moisture on the other hand, you can instantly feel the difference but it isn't always strong enough to tackle very damaged hair.

Always start with protein and finish with moisture, you can leave moisture masks on longer if your on holiday by the pool or no so glamorous, cleaning around the house. However, NEVER leave protein masks, or keratin masks on longer than the tub says. Protein and Keratin can weaken your hair and damage it if left on too long!

Remember you are working with professional strength CHEMICALS, that do what they say, so follow the instructions!

To find out which mask is best for your hair, pop in or when you booking in for an appointment we include a full consultation to determine the best homecare for your hair.

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If you'd like to try a mask on your hair for FREE

we are currently offering a complementary treatment with all cut and finishes until 16.2.18 with selected stylists.

Click Here To Claim Your Complementary Treatment

Our Top Tips On Growing Your Hair

Hands in the air if your growing your hair, Wave em around like you just don't care! 

So, it's the new year, everyone is full of turkey and prosecco. Most people are praying for payday to come quicker and you might just be thinking of postponing your hair cut...STOP!!!!!!!

Number 1 Top Tip For Growing Your Hair Is........

1) Trim your hair regularly! By regularly we mean 6-8 weeks. If you don't cut your hair when your growing it, your hair will split and fray up the hair shaft meaning you will need more cut off on your next visit. So, don't miss the appointment because your growing it or skint, get a stylist you trust and ask them to 'kiss' the ends with their scissors just to seal the ends and stop it from traveling up your head!

2) Chop the dead irreparable hair off! So, before you can start to grow your hair down, you must be honest with yourself and get what the hairdresser suggests cut off. If you don't your hair will split and snap off before it grows. Depending on your bravery and how nice your stylist is & how damaged your hair is of course... This can be done in one big chop or a little each visit to keep your hair in a nice style or not to traumatise you, we will just take off what has grown each visit until we reach the full, healthy hair that is worth growing!

3) Feed your hair!!!!!! Nothing in nature grow's unless you feed and nurture it. All hair needs feeding and by feeding we mean treating. "Oh, but I don't colour my hair" I hear you say, even uncoloured hair needs a mask to keep it healthy. Every day our hair is assaulted by the elements, wind, rain, cold, free radicals and the sun’s UV, not to mention, the blow drying, curling, straightening and that's before we even talk about chemical abuse! Hair needs moisture for dryness and protein for strength, some hair need a blend of the two. Any good stylist who truly cares about you and your hair, should tell you about which is right for you. Stylists can tell by touching and viewing your hair what masks to prescribe for you. Don't be tempted to use a one size fits all from the supermarket if you want to see results, if they we're any good, we would use them! (think about it)

4) Let's talk about heat, nearly every time I ask a client if they use heat protection they say yes. So why is your hair burnt to hell?? If you have it, use it! If you’re not using it ask yourself why? It's usually because it’s too sticky, or you can feel it in the hair. If that's the case, try one recommended by your stylist. I always test them by spraying on to the back of your hand. If it rubs in and you can't feel it, it should be fine, if it goes sticky or greasy then I’d leave well alone. Our fave’s are, Hot off the press by Paul Mitchell, Moroccanoil's Heat styling protection and kitoko Arte heat defy spray. A good professional heat defy product should last you well over a year and well worth the investment. Spray your hair every time you use heat on it, not just when your styling your freshly washed hair. Remember most irons heat to 220 degrees and the average shoulder length strand of hair is 2-3 years old, imagine how many times that strand has been burnt alive.... Get spraying!

5) Finally, Diet. It is so important to insure you get the best variety of vitamins and minerals in your diet or your hair won't stand a chance. When the body is lacking, the first non-vital things it starts to neglect is the hair and nails. Thin, slow growing hair can be because of a poor or restricted diet. Whenever I see a client for the first time I analyse the hair and scalp to see if there are signs of dietary, medical or hormonal restriction. Now, I’m obviously no doctor, but I have looked at thousands of scalps in my time and I can spot someone with an iron deficiency from a mile off. So, I would always start off by advising a blood test to anyone who has slow growing or fine hair, even if it's been like it for years. Diet, Thyroid, Menopause, Postnatal hormones etc can wreak havoc with your hair so ask for a full blood screen with your GP as there isn't much we can do if you need a little help on the inside.

If you’d like more personal advice, pop in and see us and take advantage of our FREE hair MOT or FREE HAIR CLINIC, Throughout January 18 with Chloe.