Are You A Salon Dodger, Is It Time To Go More Often?

Can’t Style, Won’t Style…

Are you one of ‘those’ people who just can’t or won’t do their hair?

Are you in the quarterly haircut crew?

Maybe it’s time to change? After decades of styling different types of people, I can honestly say that the worse you are at doing your hair, the more frequently you should go to the salon.

Why, you may ask? for the simple fact that the longer you leave your hair between cuts, the harder it is to style & the longer it takes to look semi-decent.

Now it can take years to convince a bi-annual hair trimmer to resign themselves to the 6 weekly chop, but I am yet to have one single person revert back to their salon dodging ways. The simple reason is that by going when your stylist recommends, they can see how your hair grows out and assess how to cut it so it’s even easier to style, meaning quicker and less faffing! If your not much of a talker at the salon, it also means you don’t have to tell your stylist how you want it every time and end up with a dodgy doo, because they can remember exactly what they did and get on with styling your hair with minimal input.

If your short on time & never get chance to visit the salon, all the more reason to pre-book a time that suits you, you get reminder text, email and even an app! No more trying to remember to call to book in every day between meetings or before bed each night, we all do that!

How Often Should I Go?

Cropped hair: Cut around the ears, 4 weeks to keep the fuzzy neck hair at bay.

Bob length: 5 weeks to keep looking sharp.

Mid - Long hair 6 weekly to keep in shape, on top of your fringe and to stop layers going flat

Save money! Not only do you manage to stay looking groomed with very minimal effort, besides turning up and sitting in the chair, you will only be paying for a standard haircut not a restyle, reshape or redesign which costs more and can take longer.

Happy trimming :)

What is the difference between balayage and highlights? Salon jargon explained!

Hairdressing jargon has changed in recent years, we’re going to try to demystify some of the terms for you, so you don’t feel quite so daft when you shuffle into the salon and ask for your usual highlight because you have absolutely no idea what all these new fangled services are.

Foils, Meshes, Wraps

Traditional highlights, the term foil, meshe or wrap just describes what your salon likes to use to apply them. It is all highlights.

Highlights

Highlights are where you lighten your hair, but not all of it, just strands that are weaved through the hair, section by section. It’s a similar effect although way less painful than the cap of the 80’s. Highlighting or Lowlighting, where darker colour is applied rather than the lightning solutions, (you see what we did there) are applied more evenly than with the cap. Placement of the strands of colour was not quite random with the cap but not a great deal of control nor was it very close to the root. You were also limited to 1 colour as this was painted all over the hair that had been pulled through the holes of the cap. With foils the number of colours you have is only limited by the number of bowls your stylist owns and his or her patience!

Cap

Not seen as much these days although for short hair it can be handy, hair is pulled through a rubber cap that is put on your head, attractive! The stylist uses a crochet hook which has just been renamed a highlighting hook, yes it was painful!

Babylights

Super, super fine highlights, see above. Only a very small amount of hair is left out of the foils, takes longer than normal highlights, you will get a stronger result as more hair is coloured than in standard foils. You may also get stronger regrowth depending on the colours you have applied.

Back To Back Foils

This is where we leave none of your natural hair out of the foils, you takes even longer than baby lights. Can be used as slices to achieve a blonder result, often used in colour correction.

Balayage

A free hand technique where your stylist paints each of your light strands with a brush and a paddle. A very creative technique, that requires skill and artistry for it to look beautiful. Unlike foils, there is no set pattern or sectioning. The stylist manipulates the hair’s tension, angles, elevation, pressure of the brush, product on the hair and how much colour is painted on to achieve the look. In other words, there is a lot that can go wrong, if it just so happens your confident your stylist could re-create the Mona Lisa, go ahead if not find someone specifically trained and practiced, make sure you see examples of their work! Balayage is a work of art!

New York Lights

Put simply, a half head of balayage.

Glaze

= Toner, a glaze is a semi-permanent colour gloss that will tone, add shine and condition your hair. Our Gazes process for 20 – 30 mins depending on the starting tone and desired look, meaning they last longer than standard toners.

Toner

Toners counter-balance undesired tones in the hair. So, if your hair lifts to warm or you like a cool ash we will use a ‘toner’ if your hair needs just a little help, we will use a toner that’s on 2-10 mins at the back wash. If it needs more help, we will use a glaze to kick its ass! Toners do fade quicker than glazes, sometimes if your hair fades fast, your stylist can leave it on a little longer so the toner is stronger when you leave the salon ie, your hair has a blue or purple tinge but will probably give you an extra week of perfect colour as perfect after your first wash and sinks in better. Your stylist can do this but don’t freak out if you look like Papa Smurf! Your getting 1-2 weeks extra out of your colour, better to be blue than yellow!

Re-Touch and Glaze

Root’s covered and re tone, it’s a maintenance service used to refresh balayage or certain looks when you have totally changed your base colour or have grey.

Blow Wave

There’s even multiple options for drying hair now! Blow wave is where your stylist creates curls or waves in your hair using just a brush. All cut and finishes or blowdrys come with a standard smooth blowdry, if you want your hair dried curly, wavy or curled with the irons this is charged extra unless you ask for a blow wave then its included in that services price, always say which you like when booking so they can book the correct time and quote you correctly.

Last but not least, when is haircut a restyle or redesign? What’s the difference?

Re Design

Is a total major change! Think long to Pixi cut

Re Style

Is when your hair has gone out of shape or you add layers or a fringe, a small change to your existing style or take more than 2 inches off

Cut and finish

Is a trim, this is to keep your hair in shape so it doesn’t go out of style. Think of it as maintaining what you have, less than 2 inches off.

Cut and Blow Wave

As above with a bouncy curly or wavy finish

Dry / Wet Cut

This is usually used as an add on to another service that already includes a blow dry.

Although it’s quicker and cheaper, a good haircut is in 2 stages, so you will compromise an area of your cut.

The drawbacks with a wet or dry cut if that’s what you specifically like to book for are….

1) Wet cutting, this created the structure and the shape, think clean straight lines. Your stylist can comb your hair flat and have greater control when getting the hair straight. If it’s dry, it has kinks and bends in the hair that can make the style totally different or uneven once washed and dried at home.

2) Dry cutting, this is where we check if the base line has any graduation or areas of imperfection that will affect you styling your hair. Your stylist will check through the balance and the weight of your hair cut, thicker hair can require more dry work to remove thickness and bulk, meaning your hair will style easier and last longer. Fine hair may need weight removing to encourage movement, body and volume. Your stylist may shatter the edges to give your style a softer or more textured appearance. The dry stage is the personalisation, the design of the cut.

By opting for one or the other you are compromising one aspect of your cut, in most cases, there are the very rare odd exception to this rule.

If you can think of anything we’ve not covered, get in touch and ask us for an explanation. Our front of house Annie is happy to help!

Sorry To Break It To You.... Leaving Conditioner On For Longer Will NOT Repair Your Hair!

If I had a pound for every time I hear this I would be on a yacht in the bahamas!

Now I don't for one minute think that there is anyone out there who doesn't want to make their hair look nice. Even the client who comes in every 2 years for a chin length bob and treats the salon more like tree surgeons.

As a stylist who genuinely cares about their clients hair, I talk to each and every person who comes through the salon doors about how to make the best of their hair for the amount of effort they are prepared to put in. I always try to keep it relevant and easy, as i'm a low maintenance kinda girl myself. Despite being a stylist for the past 14 years and working in a salon for 18, I am not and will never be the person who uses 6 brushes and 10 products on mine or anyone else's hair for that matter,, ok, unless its a wedding! 

If my regime cannot be done whilst multitasking it's just not going to happen. I live in awe of my bff our therapist Michelle, her skin is so soft from body brushing every day that Jamie Dornan would slide off! (she will kill me for that)!😘 

Back to hair now and less daydreaming about the aforementioned Mr Grey! 

There is a misbelief amongst clients that leaving regular conditioner on for longer will repair or 'extra condition' your hair. The sad fact is that this is doing nothing except wasting your precious time. The science behind it is that regular condition from the supermarket or salon is designed to close the cuticle layer of your hair after cleansing. The conditioner is acidic which makes the cuticle layer lay flat and as tight as possible. This seals the hair and gives a reflective surface for light to bounce off making the hair appear shiny. When the cuticle layers lay flat it also reduced the risk of damage from brushing and styling because your hair is smoother, this also makes it feel soft. Some people say using conditioner makes their hair feel heavy and lifeless, I believe that only when the incorrect conditioner for your hair type is being used. Conditioner should not weigh the hair down nor leave it greasy.

If you want to repair, nourish or strengthen your hair, a hair treatment or mask is what you need. Unlike conditioners, their molecules are small enough to penetrate the cuticle layer and depending on the quality, travel deep into the hair. Protein rich masks will build and restore the elasticity in the hair, this is great for people who have lightened their hair or have naturally fine hair. Fine hair is naturally weaker and needs more protein than thicker hair.

Moisture masks hydrate and soften the hair, making hair more supple and manageable. Thick coarse hair can become stiff or feel hard to touch, this is when extra mosire is needed deep within the hair and to soften the external cuticle and promote shine. Moisture rich masks will improve the texture of your hair and make it easier to style.

Every hair type would benefit from a weekly mask, hair gains no nourishment or moisture from the body once it had grown from the follicle. Whilst diet and health affects it while it's growing, once grown there is no way to repair or alter your hairs state unless you invest in the correct homecare to fix it. 

How To

Cleanse your hair using a professional shampoo, on mask day I prefer to use a clarifying shampoo to detox my hair and open my cuticles as wide as possible, this way i know my mask is going to penetrate as deep as possible and product build up or oil can't create a barrier. Once cleansed, towel dry your hair by gently squeezing the water out or if our hair is very thick you can wrap your hair in a towel for a few mins before you apply your mask. We recommend you dry your hair a little fist so the mask isn't diluted too much by the water in your hair. Once towel dried you are ready to put your mask on, scoop a 50p sized dollop of the mask into your hand and work into your hair starting from the ends, you will notice your hair starts to soften immediately. Add a bit more if you feel your hair isn't covered, some stylists will recommend you keep the mask away from the roots, I personally put mine all over so it's personal preference, I can make your hair feel too soft at the roots and be harder to get volume in your hair immediately after treating, but the shine is awesome so it's your call!

Leave the mask on for the time it states on the tub, I like to put a shower cap on and either carry on showering knowing my hair is safely out the way or you can get out and do other things and jump back in the shower when it's ready to come off.

If your doing two masks, rinse, towel dry and apply the second (protein 1st, moisture 2nd)

Process and rince, seal your treatment in using your salon professional conditioner.

What if I need moisture and protein and have 2 masks to use?

If you need protein adding to your hair we always recommend that you have moisture too, in fact, we will not sell a protein mask to anyone without a having moisture first. Why,  hear you say? well sorry but I just don't trust you! I have a duty to protect my clients from themselves, if you use a protein mask incorrectly un can cause your hair to SNAP!

As many clients will often say they will by the moisture mask on the next visit, I will only let a protein mask be purchased if I know they have the moisture one at home or are buying them together. Also, protein masks very rarely make your hair feel nice, as the protein hardens and strengthens the hairs internal structure, it often doesn't make your hair feel very nice or any different after so in my early days as a stylist i'd often have a client discard her protein mask and stop using it as she couldn't feel an instant improvement. Of course it was working but because protein hardens and rebuilds you can't feel it, moisture on the other hand, you can instantly feel the difference but it isn't always strong enough to tackle very damaged hair.

Always start with protein and finish with moisture, you can leave moisture masks on longer if your on holiday by the pool or no so glamorous, cleaning around the house. However, NEVER leave protein masks, or keratin masks on longer than the tub says. Protein and Keratin can weaken your hair and damage it if left on too long!

Remember you are working with professional strength CHEMICALS, that do what they say, so follow the instructions!

To find out which mask is best for your hair, pop in or when you booking in for an appointment we include a full consultation to determine the best homecare for your hair.

---

If you'd like to try a mask on your hair for FREE

we are currently offering a complementary treatment with all cut and finishes until 16.2.18 with selected stylists.

Click Here To Claim Your Complementary Treatment

How Often Should I Cut My Hair?

Affinage Collection 2017

Now depending on a few factors there are a few answers to this question...

Generally speaking though, 6 weeks is the usual time to get your hair trimmed back into shape. By the sixth week you're normally sweeping that fringe out of your eyes and using way more root boost than is actually needed for your blowdry.

Having said that there are a few things to consider about the right length of time for you and your style.

1. The length of your hair

If you have short cropped hair or heavily textured hair that requires very little styling, you will be needing a tidy up at the 4th week. Any longer than this and your morning routine will drive you so mad you'll want to shave it all off! We find bob length hair needs a shape up at week 5 to keep it easy to manage and hassle free and mid to long hair is ready at 6 weeks.

2. The thickness

If your hair is very fine, you will find at week 5 your hair becomes limp and floppy, meaning less time in bed. Despite the length still being fine at 5 weeks, the weight of your top layers will be making you feel like you cant do a thing with it so schedule your slot for 5 weeks to remain bad hair day free.

3. I'm growing it

The big problem here is when clients go into hiding because they are growing their hair, when they reemerge the ends are usually so split and broken there is nothing that can be done to stop the hair splitting further. Instead keep up your regular trims, discuss your goals with your stylist and ask them to just seal the ends, I call this 'kissing' it with my scissors, I simply remove the minimum amount just to stop the ends from splitting further up the hair, approx 2mm. That way we don't have to cut off the 3 inches you have been guarding with your life... Use a mask weekly to feed and repair your hair and schedule your visit every 6-7 weeks.

4. I can't afford it

We all struggle with our budget from time to time and if things are a bit tight, don't reach for the kitchen scissors just yet. Have a chat with your stylist to find a way to maintain your look for less. Any stylist truly invested in you and your hair should be able to come up with a few ideas to save you some money. Most clients will want to stick with the same stylist, however, many salons operate a free roaming policy. We actively encourage our clients to try other stylists within the team, often people can feel awkward but its up to the stylist to let you know that its OK, after all we would rather you stay in our salon than go somewhere else! Save more than you think by opting for a less experienced stylist, in our salon, if you change stylist, your original stylist will debrief the new one to give them a heads up on how you like it. Also by discussing your budget, your stylist can advise on how many extra weeks they would recommend between cuts. In extreme circumstances, never leave your hair more than 12 weeks, this is when split ends run wild and it can take ages your you hair to get back to health.

5. I don't have time

The best advice I have for this one is to always pre-book. That way you never have to think about it, it can take days even weeks to remember to call the salon and by that point all the appointments are usually gone. Evenings and weekends are like gold dust and most great stylist will get booked up in 6 weekly round as each cycle of pre-booking clients visits.

6. I don't do anything with my hair

The can't style, won't style gang, you leave your hair to dry naturally and possible don't own a hair brush!? You already know you give your stylist nightmares about your style routine but we actually really enjoy doing natural hair. This is where the most skill comes in and a bad hair cut would totally show and you would know about it. Believe it or not it is really important you maintain your cut when your stylist recommends, a good cut will mean even less faffing and whether you care or not it could look pretty good with zero effort! yay!