Sorry To Break It To You.... Leaving Conditioner On For Longer Will NOT Repair Your Hair!

If I had a pound for every time I hear this I would be on a yacht in the bahamas!

Now I don't for one minute think that there is anyone out there who doesn't want to make their hair look nice. Even the client who comes in every 2 years for a chin length bob and treats the salon more like tree surgeons.

As a stylist who genuinely cares about their clients hair, I talk to each and every person who comes through the salon doors about how to make the best of their hair for the amount of effort they are prepared to put in. I always try to keep it relevant and easy, as i'm a low maintenance kinda girl myself. Despite being a stylist for the past 14 years and working in a salon for 18, I am not and will never be the person who uses 6 brushes and 10 products on mine or anyone else's hair for that matter,, ok, unless its a wedding! 

If my regime cannot be done whilst multitasking it's just not going to happen. I live in awe of my bff our therapist Michelle, her skin is so soft from body brushing every day that Jamie Dornan would slide off! (she will kill me for that)!😘 

Back to hair now and less daydreaming about the aforementioned Mr Grey! 

There is a misbelief amongst clients that leaving regular conditioner on for longer will repair or 'extra condition' your hair. The sad fact is that this is doing nothing except wasting your precious time. The science behind it is that regular condition from the supermarket or salon is designed to close the cuticle layer of your hair after cleansing. The conditioner is acidic which makes the cuticle layer lay flat and as tight as possible. This seals the hair and gives a reflective surface for light to bounce off making the hair appear shiny. When the cuticle layers lay flat it also reduced the risk of damage from brushing and styling because your hair is smoother, this also makes it feel soft. Some people say using conditioner makes their hair feel heavy and lifeless, I believe that only when the incorrect conditioner for your hair type is being used. Conditioner should not weigh the hair down nor leave it greasy.

If you want to repair, nourish or strengthen your hair, a hair treatment or mask is what you need. Unlike conditioners, their molecules are small enough to penetrate the cuticle layer and depending on the quality, travel deep into the hair. Protein rich masks will build and restore the elasticity in the hair, this is great for people who have lightened their hair or have naturally fine hair. Fine hair is naturally weaker and needs more protein than thicker hair.

Moisture masks hydrate and soften the hair, making hair more supple and manageable. Thick coarse hair can become stiff or feel hard to touch, this is when extra mosire is needed deep within the hair and to soften the external cuticle and promote shine. Moisture rich masks will improve the texture of your hair and make it easier to style.

Every hair type would benefit from a weekly mask, hair gains no nourishment or moisture from the body once it had grown from the follicle. Whilst diet and health affects it while it's growing, once grown there is no way to repair or alter your hairs state unless you invest in the correct homecare to fix it. 

How To

Cleanse your hair using a professional shampoo, on mask day I prefer to use a clarifying shampoo to detox my hair and open my cuticles as wide as possible, this way i know my mask is going to penetrate as deep as possible and product build up or oil can't create a barrier. Once cleansed, towel dry your hair by gently squeezing the water out or if our hair is very thick you can wrap your hair in a towel for a few mins before you apply your mask. We recommend you dry your hair a little fist so the mask isn't diluted too much by the water in your hair. Once towel dried you are ready to put your mask on, scoop a 50p sized dollop of the mask into your hand and work into your hair starting from the ends, you will notice your hair starts to soften immediately. Add a bit more if you feel your hair isn't covered, some stylists will recommend you keep the mask away from the roots, I personally put mine all over so it's personal preference, I can make your hair feel too soft at the roots and be harder to get volume in your hair immediately after treating, but the shine is awesome so it's your call!

Leave the mask on for the time it states on the tub, I like to put a shower cap on and either carry on showering knowing my hair is safely out the way or you can get out and do other things and jump back in the shower when it's ready to come off.

If your doing two masks, rinse, towel dry and apply the second (protein 1st, moisture 2nd)

Process and rince, seal your treatment in using your salon professional conditioner.

What if I need moisture and protein and have 2 masks to use?

If you need protein adding to your hair we always recommend that you have moisture too, in fact, we will not sell a protein mask to anyone without a having moisture first. Why,  hear you say? well sorry but I just don't trust you! I have a duty to protect my clients from themselves, if you use a protein mask incorrectly un can cause your hair to SNAP!

As many clients will often say they will by the moisture mask on the next visit, I will only let a protein mask be purchased if I know they have the moisture one at home or are buying them together. Also, protein masks very rarely make your hair feel nice, as the protein hardens and strengthens the hairs internal structure, it often doesn't make your hair feel very nice or any different after so in my early days as a stylist i'd often have a client discard her protein mask and stop using it as she couldn't feel an instant improvement. Of course it was working but because protein hardens and rebuilds you can't feel it, moisture on the other hand, you can instantly feel the difference but it isn't always strong enough to tackle very damaged hair.

Always start with protein and finish with moisture, you can leave moisture masks on longer if your on holiday by the pool or no so glamorous, cleaning around the house. However, NEVER leave protein masks, or keratin masks on longer than the tub says. Protein and Keratin can weaken your hair and damage it if left on too long!

Remember you are working with professional strength CHEMICALS, that do what they say, so follow the instructions!

To find out which mask is best for your hair, pop in or when you booking in for an appointment we include a full consultation to determine the best homecare for your hair.

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If you'd like to try a mask on your hair for FREE

we are currently offering a complementary treatment with all cut and finishes until 16.2.18 with selected stylists.

Click Here To Claim Your Complementary Treatment

Our Top Tips On Growing Your Hair

Hands in the air if your growing your hair, Wave em around like you just don't care! 

So, it's the new year, everyone is full of turkey and prosecco. Most people are praying for payday to come quicker and you might just be thinking of postponing your hair cut...STOP!!!!!!!

Number 1 Top Tip For Growing Your Hair Is........

1) Trim your hair regularly! By regularly we mean 6-8 weeks. If you don't cut your hair when your growing it, your hair will split and fray up the hair shaft meaning you will need more cut off on your next visit. So, don't miss the appointment because your growing it or skint, get a stylist you trust and ask them to 'kiss' the ends with their scissors just to seal the ends and stop it from traveling up your head!

2) Chop the dead irreparable hair off! So, before you can start to grow your hair down, you must be honest with yourself and get what the hairdresser suggests cut off. If you don't your hair will split and snap off before it grows. Depending on your bravery and how nice your stylist is & how damaged your hair is of course... This can be done in one big chop or a little each visit to keep your hair in a nice style or not to traumatise you, we will just take off what has grown each visit until we reach the full, healthy hair that is worth growing!

3) Feed your hair!!!!!! Nothing in nature grow's unless you feed and nurture it. All hair needs feeding and by feeding we mean treating. "Oh, but I don't colour my hair" I hear you say, even uncoloured hair needs a mask to keep it healthy. Every day our hair is assaulted by the elements, wind, rain, cold, free radicals and the sun’s UV, not to mention, the blow drying, curling, straightening and that's before we even talk about chemical abuse! Hair needs moisture for dryness and protein for strength, some hair need a blend of the two. Any good stylist who truly cares about you and your hair, should tell you about which is right for you. Stylists can tell by touching and viewing your hair what masks to prescribe for you. Don't be tempted to use a one size fits all from the supermarket if you want to see results, if they we're any good, we would use them! (think about it)

4) Let's talk about heat, nearly every time I ask a client if they use heat protection they say yes. So why is your hair burnt to hell?? If you have it, use it! If you’re not using it ask yourself why? It's usually because it’s too sticky, or you can feel it in the hair. If that's the case, try one recommended by your stylist. I always test them by spraying on to the back of your hand. If it rubs in and you can't feel it, it should be fine, if it goes sticky or greasy then I’d leave well alone. Our fave’s are, Hot off the press by Paul Mitchell, Moroccanoil's Heat styling protection and kitoko Arte heat defy spray. A good professional heat defy product should last you well over a year and well worth the investment. Spray your hair every time you use heat on it, not just when your styling your freshly washed hair. Remember most irons heat to 220 degrees and the average shoulder length strand of hair is 2-3 years old, imagine how many times that strand has been burnt alive.... Get spraying!

5) Finally, Diet. It is so important to insure you get the best variety of vitamins and minerals in your diet or your hair won't stand a chance. When the body is lacking, the first non-vital things it starts to neglect is the hair and nails. Thin, slow growing hair can be because of a poor or restricted diet. Whenever I see a client for the first time I analyse the hair and scalp to see if there are signs of dietary, medical or hormonal restriction. Now, I’m obviously no doctor, but I have looked at thousands of scalps in my time and I can spot someone with an iron deficiency from a mile off. So, I would always start off by advising a blood test to anyone who has slow growing or fine hair, even if it's been like it for years. Diet, Thyroid, Menopause, Postnatal hormones etc can wreak havoc with your hair so ask for a full blood screen with your GP as there isn't much we can do if you need a little help on the inside.

If you’d like more personal advice, pop in and see us and take advantage of our FREE hair MOT or FREE HAIR CLINIC, Throughout January 18 with Chloe.

Why Doesn't My Hair Grow?

Why doesn't my hair grow? Is the question we get asked most in the salon, along with women saying 'my hair just doesn't grow'. Your hair does definitely grow or we wouldn't be needing to colour your hair now, would we? The problem is, that often it's snapping off as quick as it grows! 

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Sometimes through health, diet and stress, but too often hair is breaking through abuse! Yes, abuse! Heat abuse, chemical abuse and physical abuse, are all things that most of our clients are blissfully unaware of when the enter Cocco Salon for the first time.

We give every client's hair a health check during their appointment and identify areas of improvement to encourage growth and health. Sometimes changes in services is what your hair needs, a homecare regime or frequently blood tests are the way to go. Over they years we have helped many of our clients uncover hidden health issues by assessing their hair thoroughly. We are by no means Doctors, but we know a lot about hair!

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Common Causes Of Hair Not Growing

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• Overlapping, Lightener/Bleach - Over processing hair can be very damaging and cause hair to break and become brittle. Always use a protein regime when lightening hair and use masks one a week at least! Ask your stylist to recommend one for your hair type, we recommend Paul Mitchell's Strength, Range From £12.95

• Box Dyes - Box dyes are a one size fits all solution to colouring your hair, if you're lucky enough to fit into that one hair type the box is made for then yes it will look ok, but the other 99% of people will have a disaster at best or totally fried hair at worst. If you require a medium blonde colour and are not far off the desired colour naturally, lets say 1 shade, after 3 applications all over your hair with a box product you will have exposed your hair to approx 8 times more peroxide than you needed to or a salon product would. Salon colour is mixed by a colourist specifically for your hair to counteract unwanted pigment ie orange and using the weakest strength activator needed to achieve the level of lift you need, to get the look you want. By not over lifting your hair, hair stays healthier, your cuticle is stronger so retains the colour molecules for longer meaning your colour will last longer! Ever wondered why your box dye red goes pink after a week on the ends, yup it's fried...

• Infrequent Haircuts - Believe it or not, not cutting your hair regularly and sealing the ends can cause hair to weaken and fray/split at the ends. Trim your hair every 6-8 weeks to ensure hair stays in tip top condition, get a stylist you trust to just take a millimetre of the ends just to seal it if you're growing it.

                                          Cocco Salon £11.99

• Over Brushing / Rough Brushing - Hair can become damaged if you use the incorrect brush when brushing your hair or being too rough with it, causing it to snap. Always brush your hair starting at the ends and work your way up. If your hair is particularly knotty, try using Awapuhi Wild Ginger Oil before you begin brushing, just to loosen and lubricate your strands. Use a detangling brush, such as a WET BRUSH favoured by the Kardashian Clan.

• Heat - Number 1 abuse is thermal damage, you must always use a good quality heat protection product on your hair, EVERY single time! Imagine how many times you straighten or curl your hair a year, well those ends are probably 3 years old, how much heat exposure is that! 230 degrees a time OUCH! Often shop bought protection sprays can feel very sticky or heavy in the hair so client's don't like using them. Our favourite is Paul Mitchell's Hot Of The Press, its ultra lightweight and totally undetectable in the hair, if you want something more natural then try Kitoko's Heat Defy which can be used on wet or dry hair so can be used to protect against drying too.

• Stress - Stress can play a huge part in hair health, often clients can notice shedding during stressful times in life such as exams, changing jobs, losing a loved one or during a breakup. The most important thing is to not add to your stress by stressing about your hair too! Stress-induced hair loss is extremely common, especially in women. It normally gets better by its self once the levels of stress hormones in your blood return to normal. There are products that can encourage new hair, Kitoko's Age Defy regime and Paul Mitchell Scalp Therapy are more natural based stimulants and we have found to be very effective.

• Hormones – Post Pregnancy, Menopause and Hormone imbalance can wreak havoc with your hair, thinning and shedding being the most common problem. Many ladies find they shed a huge amount of hair post-pregnancy as their normal levels of hormones are starting to stabilise.

• Diet – What we eat can significantly impact the health of our hair. A well-balanced diet with plenty of foods rich in vitamins and minerals should ensure your hair is in tip-top condition. Sudden weight loss from extreme dieting and changes in diet can cause changes in your hair.

• Vitamin D. Adequate vitamin D is important for preventing hair loss, especially in women
• Vitamin A. Vitamin A deficiency accompanies a host of serious health consequences. 
• Biotin
• Vitamin C
• Vitamin E
• Iron / B12. Can also affect your brain function and nervous system as well as energy levels.
• Zinc
• Iodine

Try to increase the number of foods rich in these vitamins and minerals or start taking a supplement to boost your levels. Always consult your doctor when thinking of supplementing your diet. Ask for a blood test to identify any low levels.

If you have an unbalanced diet, this can be problematic for hair, ie, if you eat little veg and lots of processed foods. Certain health conditions such as bulimia or anorexia can impact nutrient intake, malabsorption from Chrones Disease, Coeliac Disease or other bowel condition and quite regularly clients who are vegan or vegetarian who don’t have a good grasp on which key vegetables and pulses need to be consumed regularly to maintain healthy vitamin and mineral levels. We always advise clients to ask to be referred to a dietician to ensure they have a clear understanding of how top get enough B12 in their diet as B12 is stored in the liver and can last a number of years after stopping eating meat, therefore deficiencies only become apparent years later. If you are thinking of becoming Vegan or are Vegan here is some info on B12 and how to make sure you're getting everything you need. http://veganhealth.org/articles/everyvegan

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What Can Be Done?

Make sure you check all of the above, if you do your bit on the inside, we can tackle the outside!

There are many ways we can boost your hair growth in salon, we have hair care to stimulate and encourage new growth and can remove impurities that can be present on the scalp repressing new growth. Paul Mitchell's Tea Tree Scalp Care, Stimulates, Strengthens and regenerates and is reported to give 85% Increased hair volume and strength. We also work with Kitoko Age Prevent with unique technology to help combat the signs of ageing hair, by asking you a few questions and taking a look at your scalp we can identify which line is most suitable for you.

If breakage is your thing, protecting and repairing your hair is a must! say's, Hayley

A round of specific high concentration prescriptive treatments in salon will be beneficial, such as Olaplex, Vitaplex or Awapuhi's Wild Ginger Keratriplex or Hydraplex Treatments. Kick start your repair with a high dose of hair treatment in line with your needs and keep it topped up at home with home care for best results.

High Dose Treatments From £25

Fake It, Till You Make It!

Failing all that and you just have fine hair, there are loads of tip, tricks and tools to give you a helping hand with getting more volume and life into your hair. Our team can help you find the perfect styling solutions from a new cut, introducing colour or a gravity-defying root mousse (we like Moroccan Oil's root boost!)

Above all don't stress about it! See common cause number 4 above, stress will only make things worse!

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If you are concerned about the fullness of your hair or have noticed shedding, consult your GP and ask for a blood test to illuminate Thyroid issues, have your Iron levels tested and discuss your concerns.

If you suffer from any of the health conditions mentioned above, speak with your healthcare professional to check your levels.

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10% Off Haircare

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Show this voucher at time of payment and receive 10% off all hair repair care excluding styling products & electricals. 1 voucher per person, not to be used in conjunction with any other offer. Expires September 1st 2017

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All material in this blog is provided for your information only and may not be construed as medical advice or instruction. No action or inaction should be taken based solely on the contents of this information; instead, readers should consult appropriate health professionals on any matter relating to their health and well-being.